I love to buy souvenirs and trinkets wherever I go, and there were so many things today that caught my eye. I always end up buying too many things, and I’ve learned to pack light so I can fit them all in. Generally I like to buy savory snacks to have with a drink, but today there were quite a few sweet treats on offer, so I bought a few that I thought might go well with different types of drinks.
The burnt butter cake at Mukashin was exceptional—soft and fluffy with just a hint of sweetness thanks to the butter. I bought a Tsugekushi comb to give to my grandmother, but now I’m thinking I might keep it myself, in case I get a role in a period drama one day.
- Historical Sites
- Nature Spots
- Hands-on Experiences
Allow around 6 hours in total
This one-day itinerary showcases a number of quaint old-time shops located between Mizuma and Kaizuka stations on the Mizuma Railway, and includes locations featured in the web series Mizuma Train. Your guide is Kurumi Moriyama, who plays freelance writer Aki Hashimoto.
Watch the Mizuma Train web seriesWe begin at Mizuma Kannon Station, the main setting for the Mizuma Train series. This is the terminus of the Mizuma Railway, which began operations in 1925. As part of an extensive refurbishment in 2018, the entire roof of the station has been decked out with kokedama indoor plants. The original reinforced concrete station building is still standing downs at the end of the platform, with its distinctive modern-style window bars.
Outside, we see a unique shape that takes us back to the heyday of the Mizuma Railway, when it was the primary route for the pilgrimage to Mizuma Kannon shrine. There is also a display of old railway carriages which you can view from up close.
Where’s the best place for photos? Maybe at the historical railway building, under the kokedama, next to an old carriage, or perhaps somewhere else!
The shed is visible from the station building, but for a closer view you need to leave the station altogether. After all, if you’ve seen the first or second episodes of Mizuma Train, you’ll want to get a good look at the shed. The entrance is roped off so you can’t get inside, but you can still see plenty from there. If you use your imagination, you can almost see the two stars of Mizuma Train standing inside!
This is the café run by Ken Matsudaira in Mizuma Train. In the waiting room is a display of photos and costumes from the series. But what’s this… it seems Kurumi has discovered a photo of herself! And she’s going to re-enact a scene from Episode 5 for us now!
Who hasn’t always secretly wanted to drive a train? Well here’s your chance, because Mizuma Railway offers you the opportunity to get behind the controls of an actual train. Put on the driver’s cap and take the handle, and you’ll feel like a real driver. And you get a handsome certificate afterwards.
There’s a morning session and an afternoon session, so choose your time and then plan your day around it.
Now it’s time to head off on the Yakuyoke Kaido, which takes us from the station to Mizuma-dera Temple.
A series of 16 friendly figurines (called doji) has recently been installed along the Yakuyoke Kaido to greet visitors on their way to the shrine. The first one, Kantai Doji, is at Mizuma Kannon Station, while the last one, Sudhana, is near the waterfall at the entrance to the temple. See if you can spot all 16—but be careful of the traffic!
Mizuma Park is past the Aizendo, just near the hill behind Mizuma-dera Temple. Take a moment to walk across the Aizenbashi bridge, where Seijuro Onatsu is said to have found his true love. This is a popular spot for viewing cherry blossoms in spring, when the immediate surrounds and the nearby lawn area come alive with color. If weather permits, the expansive lawn area is a great place to eat lunch. In autumn, the glorious red leaves are a wonderful sight.
Address | Mizuma-dera Temple:大阪府貝塚市水間638 Mizuma Park:大阪府貝塚市水間641-1 |
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Tel | Mizuma-dera Temple: 072-446-1355 (8:30 am – 4:00 pm) Mizuma Park: 072-433-7048 (Roads and Parks Section, Urban Planning Division, City of Kaizuka) |
Official Website | Mizuma-dera Temple:https://mizumadera.or.jp/ Mizuma Park:https://www.city.kaizuka.lg.jp/kanko/shizen/mizumakoen.html |
(Please view the website for further details)
The Aizenbashi bridge in Mizuma Park features in Episode 6 of Mizuma Train, where Kohei Kijima (played by Ken Matsudaira) goes to meet his grandson.
After relaxing in the park, it’s time to get back on the train and head to Zenbei Land.
At ground level there is a statue of Edo-era scientist Iwahashi Zenbei, who built the most powerful telescope in the nation, which was subsequently used by leading cartographer Ino Tadataka to take measurements all over Japan. Upstairs you can see Zenbei’s original telescope, as well as a display of astronomical charts and other valuable items. But the main attraction is of course the enormous 60-cm reflector, the largest in the prefecture. A peek through this telescope is bound to impress.
Address | 大阪府貝塚市三ッ松216 |
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Tel | 072-447-2020 |
Official Website | https://www.city.kaizuka.lg.jp/zenbe/index.html |
(Please view the website for further details)
Who could forget the scene in the observatory dome room in Episode 4? It turns out that this is the only observatory in Osaka prefecture that’s open to the public during the day. And it’s open on selected evenings as well, so you can experience both!
Address | 大阪府貝塚市石才123-1 |
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Tel | 072-438-0505 |
Official Website | https://info.mukashin.com/shop/kaizuka/ |
(Please view the website for further details)
Our next stop is Haru Shokudo for lunch. From Mukashin, it’s just as quick to walk there as it is to take the train. So if you’ve had a few too many cakes at Mukashin, you might want to walk them off first! Luckily, Haru Shokudo offers a weekly lunch special that’s packed full of healthy vegetables, as well as a hearty sirloin steak option. It’s a wonderful place to relax over a good meal. They also do take-out meals and are open for dinner.
Address | 大阪府貝塚市海塚3-7-2 |
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Tel | 072-468-9039 |
Official Website | https://haruplus0416.wixsite.com/harusyokudouplus |
(Please view the website for further details)
Now that we’re fully satiated, it’s time to take in a few more shops. Our first stop is Shiogo, which sells murasame bean cakes, a specialty of the Senshu region. Made from azuki beans, sugar and rice flour, these unique treats have a deliciously moist and chewy texture as well as a melt-in-your-mouth flavor burst. Shiogo has been producing murasame the traditional way ever since 1854. Once upon a time it was difficult to get hold of murasame bean cakes from Shiogo, not least because they are totally preservative-free and last for only three days, and also because there are no other branches. Recently, however, Shiogo has introduced delivery to other regions, and has also created a murasame manju steamed bun that can be found in selected department stores. Why not do a taste test of the original murasame alongside the new version to see which you prefer!
Address | 大阪府貝塚市西町7-1 |
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Tel | 072-422-0055 |
Official Website | http://www.shiogo.co.jp/ |
(Please view the website for further details)
Inoue Amanatto is another popular local shop that makes traditional hand-made amanatto sweet treats. They’ve been making them exactly the same way, free of preservatives and additives, since 1892. Amanatto deliver an incredible flavor experience that almost defies description, and Inoue Amanatto make the best around. Try stopping at just one!
“Soft and fluffy, with just a hint of sweetness,” says Kurumi.
Address | 大阪府貝塚市澤1253 |
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Tel | 072-422-8478 |
Official Website | https://www.instagram.com/satokonomise/ |
(Please view the website for further details)
Tsugekushi combs are a unique traditional craft product from the Kaizuka area, made from Japanese boxwood using a traditional technique that dates back to the Asuka period (538 – 710). They came to national prominence midway through the Edo period (1603 – 1867), when they were popularly known as Izumi combs. It can take anywhere between two and ten years to prepare the boxwood. A complex series of drying, heating and pressurizing processes is used to produce a high-density timber with excellent flexibility, which is ideal for making combs that won’t bend or break.
Just as the traditional boxwood techniques from long ago have been carefully preserved through countless generations, so we too can keep these combs to give to our children.
Address | 大阪府貝塚市澤389-1 |
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Tel | 072-432-5477 |
Official Website | https://www.tsujichu.jp/ |
(Please view the website for further details)
From Tsugekushi Kobo we head back to Kaizuka Station, which marks the end of our one-day itinerary.
From here, you can head straight down to the beach at Nishikinohama to relax and reflect on your big day out.
This is the first time I’ve been back since filming Mizuma Train. My scenes were all at Mizuma Kannon Station, and filming only took a week so I had no time to explore the area. So it’s been lovely to come back and use the train to get around and visit all these interesting places. I never thought I could see so much in a single day! It’s a fabulous one-day itinerary, with plenty to see and do, not to mention all the wonderful food on offer. What’s more, I used to live in Sakai, so I feel like I have a bit of a connection to the Senshu region.
After a long period of working hard, I start to get an itch to just get away. Although my job often takes me to different and interesting places, there’s never enough time to look around and I can’t go too far anyway.
When I’m travelling, I like to sample the local produce and local cuisine. For me, food is a central part of travel. Sometimes I’ll even plan my trip around a particular restaurant! I do plenty of research on social media and plan my trip carefully before setting off.
I knew that there would be lots of things to see on this trip, so I found some other things to see in Senshu and put together an extra itinerary.
- MOVIE -
Born September 11 1993 in Osaka. Has appeared in a range of genres including variety programs (Osaka Honwaka TV), drama series (Asadora/Warotenka), radio (Kurumi Moriyama Lucky Radio) and television commercials. Played freelance writer Aki Hashimoto in the Mizuma Train series based around the real-life Mizuma Railway.
I was amazed at the size of Mizuma Kannon and the spacious grounds. I get to go to lots of different places as part of my job, and I find myself increasingly drawn to shrines and temples. There is such a rich sense of history, of connection to place. And each one has its own distinct character. Visiting a shrine or temple always makes me feel like I’ve arrived somewhere new. There’s a sense of anticipation… even the air smells different!